Restauranter Anatolij Dejneko brings German engineering to Japanese cuisin
When listing ingredients for a sushi dinner, buttermilk, beet juice, and burrata don’t generally come to mind. In that case, you’ve probably not been to Sushi Palace. Located at the northeast corner of Melrose and Highland on the ground floor of the Perigon at Hancock Park building, the latest culinary addition to the Hollywood Media District BID offers a unique take on premium sushi in a city where it seems as though every conceivable combination of raw fish has already been tried.
But menu items like fried corn with creamy tuna and dampfnudel (a German dumpling) are more than mere novelties. The unexpected flavors are a result of Sushi Palace’s unusual origins in Karlsruhe, Germany. It was there, just a few kilometers from the French border, in between Frankfurt and Stuttgart, that restaurateur Anatolij Dejneko decided in 2014 that his largely landlocked nation needed an option for high-quality sushi delivery.
He launched Sushi Palace as a franchise business and began setting up operations across the country. Today, there are over 35 locations throughout Germany, and Sushi Palace has won Best Local Restaurant Chain from Lieferando (the German equivalent of Door Dash) three years in a row.
It turns out that buttermilk pairs surprisingly well with salmon sashimi. And why wouldn’t pickled pumpkin make a good filling for vegetarian rolls?
However, Sushi Palace’s first U.S. outpost is not a delivery service (although you can get it delivered). Rather than repeat what has already been done, Dejneko and his team have created an upscale dining experience inspired by beloved LA staples like Nobu and Catch. The decor is dark and plush, with floral accents—ideal for a romantic date night or a splashy celebration.
As we mentioned, the menu offers something unique but not gimmicky. It turns out that buttermilk pairs surprisingly well with salmon sashimi. And why wouldn’t pickled pumpkin make a good filling for vegetarian rolls? These combinations are the brainchild of executive chef Max Dahlinger, a childhood friend of Dejneko who was trained in classic German and French cuisine before discovering his love of Asian fare.
That diverse training means Dahlinger can cook a mean porterhouse as well as lovingly craft a carpaccio. Coming from a country where beef runs a far second to pork, he is thrilled by the quality meats available in California. The delight is amplified by the fact that Dahlinger never imagined he’d be living and working in Los Angeles until Dejneko shared his California dream over after-work beers.
“I told him, ‘Let’s discuss this when you’re sober!’” Dahlinger laughs as he recounts Dejneko’s ambitious plan.
True to his word, Sushi Palace opened in the spring of 2024, largely thanks to the third German on the SP team, Veton Thaqui, who oversaw construction and now manages operations. Thaqui is a partner in the SoCal location and has bold plans for more restaurants in Miami, New York, and Las Vegas in the near future.
But first, the three German colleagues must convince LA to embrace their vision of German-Japanese fusion. The food is excellent and the location superb. Plus, a few A-listers have already had a taste—including a well-known actress accompanied by one of her many adopted children (hint, hint). Now would be a good time to make a reservation before the word gets out.